Day 36-38 Dampier Peninsula, WA

Gundaman Bush Camp

We drove probably the toughest dirt road yet- the Broome-Cape Leveque Rd to the top of the Dampier Peninsula into Aboriginal owned country.

It was an experience driving on a 30 degree slope to avoid the corrugations. Being over and under taken by 4WDs that fang it, riding over the top of bumps. Driving an AWD we adopted the tortoise strategy. I thought we may be in trouble but after a saw a 1990 Corolla Seca being gunned along the road, with the driver whipping it like a racer horse, we felt better.

Gumbanan Bush Camp is a beautiful, remote, quiet and special place.

Squeaky Beach, swimming and fishing, no crocs

Sunrise

This area of the Dampier Peninsula is home of the Bardi Jawi Peoples. They are saltwater peoples made up of six coastal clan groups based in three communities Djarundin, Lombardina and One Arm Point (Ardyaloon) which is five minutes from Gumbanan camp. Bardi is the language of the peoples on the mainland and Jawi is the language from Sunday Island (Iwany).

We had an extraordinary yarnin session with the traditional owners Frank and Maureen Davey. They were joined by their cousin John, his wife Janine and grandson Jared, who had come up for the weekend to enjoy fishing and the AFL grand final. Frank told us the story of how he worked on the native title claim which took 15 years, bringing the High Court to Gumbanan to prove his families ties since white settlement. The claim was finally granted in 2005 and covers 1037sqm of the land and sea.

That morning the family had caught clam and invited us to join them in a cook up. John cooked clam with ginger and shallots and chilli jam- it was beautiful. We also tried sea grapes- very salty. Maureen showed us the Bower bird nest, how she cooks damper in a quartz sandpit and talked about training up her grand kids to take over the tours they do. We talked about John's work with the Telethon Kids Institute established by Prof. Fiona Stanley which is researching chronic disease in Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal communities in WA. It was a lovely time, they made us feel very welcome.

Maureen and Frank Davey and Yarnin at camp

John preparing and cooking clam

 

Clam and sea grapes

Maureen shows us the Bower bird nest and quartz sandpit for cooking damper

Maureen showed us the fancy onsite glamping- inside features sofas, a wooden double bed, solar power and a great view ($140 p/n). The camp site does have running water, flushing toilets and showers.

We will definitely come back- maybe when we retire and next time with a 4WD or a higher clearance car.

There was hesitation on the drive back when it started to rain however we only passed through a few muddy puddles. We made it back just in time for the NRL Grand Final before Crab Races took over at the Divers Tavern, Broome.

Yes that is a Crab Hat the race caller is wearing. We are a weird mob.