Thursday 29 September 2016

Day 34-35 Journey through the Kimberleys, WA


Day 1

Fitzroy Crossing
After an eight hour drive from Kununurra to Fitzroy Crossing, we camped at the River Lodge. It was a great wide open private caravan/camp ground with a great restaurant/bar.

We visited Geiki Gorge just outside of Fitzroy Crossing. No time for a cruise just a swim with the freshwater crocodiles.


Tunnel Creek, Windjana NP
A 147km dirt drive to Tunnel Creek, where we read about the story of Jandamarra, a Banuba Aboriginal man who sought refuge in a water cave we walked through. Jandamarra worked as a police tracker before turning against the authorities, leading a rebellion against the white pastoralists who were invading the Banuba's lands. His full story can be read here: jandamarra.com.au/jandamarratheman
We did not walk the entire length of the cave as there were crocodiles towards the end nesting. Respected their space and our ankles.





Windjana Gorge
We camped the night at Windjana Gorge, where flushing toilets and showers impressed us for a NP in the middle of the outback.

We were lucky enough to watch a recent local phenomenon which occurs at sunset. The freshwater crocodiles lie in wait on the waters surface and sandy base of the Gorge for the thousands of bats which fly out of the caves to eat the insects. The crocs try and snap up the bats when they swoop down to the waters surface. Its an amazing spectacle of nature. 



We kept our distance
Watching the bats 





When a croc actually tries to snap a bat but misses.





Until we can work out how to upload videos on the Blog, see Mandy's facebook for the videos of the crocs snapping at the bats.

Day 2

Windjana Gorge, Gibb River Rd, Derby

We trekked back to the scene of bat eating contest to see the Gorge in daylight. Beautiful place.



What's for breakfast Skip? What's that? No feeding the wild children, even if they are cute and friendly.

What do you want to be? A Walla..Walla...by

Spinifex Termite Mound at campground (next to dunny)

The famous Gibb River road was too rough for our car for the 700+kms between Kununurra to Derby. However we caught the last 100kms.


Derby- hot and dry. We had an expensive lunch at the cafe that overlooks a pier that sends more live cattle overseas. Disturbing. Mandy instead ate a crocodile burger (like chewy chicken-weird).



Broome

Camped at Palm Grove and just caught the sunset at Cable Beach.


We then had dinner at the evening markets. Mandy spotted a market stall that stood out from the rest- The Divination Agency. She could have her future or past told by Miss Print, who typed it up on an old type writer or have it painted by Ms Divine. Mandy selected the written form. Miss Print asked her to hold, then turn a dictionary around in her hands. Miss Print then closed her eyes, turned the same dictionary and chose a random word that was suppose to enlighten Mandy's next five years. The word? "Quieten" ? Maybe children will be quieter around her? Ava said "Not likely". Well at least Mandy got a third off the price for being the first customer. They were lovely ladies with a tough crowd. Mandy is a sucker for dress-ups.


Up to the north west cape to stay on country.

Day 30-33 Kununurra, WA


After a five hour drive we pulled into Timber Creek for an overnight stay. Ava was a bit sick so we stayed in a "cabin". You don't get much for your $140 p/n donga, which is a refurbished construction site shed. No photos could capture the ambiance.

The landscape is continually changing. Plenty of termite hills since Mataranka which along the Victoria Highway to Kununurra, survive even back burning. The locals like to dress up termite hills with T-shirts. Hmm. We stopped at Gregory's Tree which was the camp site of the first European expedition into the North Western region of WA, led by Augustus Charles Gregory. They left their date of departure on a Boab tree July 2nd 1856 (it looks like it was only done yesterday).

 

Victoria River and at the WA border we were told to "Hand over all fruit, veg and honey or else!"

Boab country, Gregorys's Tree in the middle


Day 1- Kununurra

A cute town but hot and humid. We were up early and walked the mini Bungle Bungles in Mirima NP at 7.30am as it gets too hot by 9am (up to 40 degrees c). Home of the Miriuwung peoples.


Mirimia NP

Stringybark tree used to make didgeridoos, spears and digging sticks

They damned the Ord River to make the Ord River Irrigation Scheme- a high yield agricultural area to produce fruit and vegies. Thus a huge Lake Argyle was created.

Lake Argyle- same size as Sydney Harbour
Driving around the irrigation scheme we stumbled upon a 'Hoochery'- yes siree the oldest working distillery in Australia. We tasted six different rums, whisky and varietals on ice. I liked the whisky but at $169 per bottle- the kids had an ice cream sandwich instead.



Ivanhoe Crossing- need a 4WD


We stayed on the banks of Lake Kununurra 

Catfish was kissed and released.
 Locals say that Catfish was sold at $4 per kilo but when re-named Silver Cobbler it now sells
 at $40 per kilo- ugly character.

Day 2 Kununurra

After a hot night and plenty of swims in the BIG4 caravan park pool, we road our bikes to the only place you can swim in Lake Kununurra. We all discovered Joel is chicken and wouldn't venture out too far. There could be freshwater crocodiles about but they don't have a big enough snout to eat humans. Come on Joel!

Our trip to Wyndham (1 hour west of Kununurra) included a swim at the Grotto. Joel again showed his true colours. It was a steep climb down but the pool was refreshing in the heat. Later that night we found out that it has a resident fresh water croc. I haven't told the kids yet.




We arrived at Wyndham, a small, tired and very dry town with a massive port on the Cambridge Gulf. The Five Ways Look Out is AMAZING. It is the meeting point of the Ord, Pentecost, Forrest, Kink and Durack Rivers with the Cambridge Gulf and Timor Sea. 






Considering 10% of Australia's live export of cattle goes through Wyndham, you think the Port and Graziers could inject money into the local town- it really needs it. 

We ate lunch under the watchful eyes of Wyndham's BIG crocodile 


Our resident fresh water croc at the caravan pales into insignificance


Day 3

Up early for the much awaited flight over the Bungle Bungles
We got picked up at 5.30am- nice sunrise over Lake Kununurra
Captain- turn up the funky music
Everyone was nervous when Joel sat in the cockpit...

Left- Irrigation Scheme. Right- Lake Argyle, the second largest man-made water expanse in Australia

Argyle Diamond Mine- bit of a blight on the environment


The Bungle Bungles



Over and out!