Coral Bay was a pleasant 10 degrees cooler than the Pilbara, so it was a great relief to camp right on the beautiful shores of Ningaloo Reef. The tiny cute town of Coral Bay supports a few shops, restaurants and two campgrounds/ resorts. It was fantastic being able to cross the road and snorkel off the beach, see massive coral and fish in the turquoise waters.
Coral Bay at Sunrise
Coral Bay at Sunset
Big winds delayed our boat trip a few days but it was worth the wait. We snorkeled out on the reef, saw hump back whales, tiger sharks, turtles and SWAM with the Manta Rays and reef sharks. It was very exciting. It was a mad dash off the back of the boat, follow the guide and the Manta swims under you, then you try and keep up but they are too fast. Can highly reccomend a stay at Coral Bay.
Yes that's two mummy humpbacks with their calves.
We did a quick trip afternoon to Exmouth (130km north of Coral Bay). It was a weird town blighted by the development of man made marinas with obligatory McMansions. The town beach was adjacent to the large marina so water was murky because of the dredging. The cutest thing in town was this Emu sign below. Although just out of town is the lovely Cape Range NP, which had amazing deep gorges which you would never imagine existed from the main road. If we had a 4WD, we would have kept going west and stayed on the ocean bush camps.
Leaving Broome we stayed overnight at Eighty Mile Beach. We missed the sunset and the tide was out the next morning. Beach full of shells, large campground but dodgy amenities. Watched a family of five opposite us make their kids sleep on stretchers under the stars, then all squash into an old Landcruiser troopy. Our kids are living in luxury!
Arriving in Karatha, the kids enjoyed a great water park and a putt putt game in the dark. It was nice to have dinner with Joel's Uncle, Richard Johnson.
From Karatha we had to get a permit and watch a 20min video about how to drive on dirt, to use the Rio Tinto private Road to Karijini NP.
We passed plenty of 2km long iron ore trains and beautiful scenery. This is mining territory. After 6 hours on dirt road (we took the scenic route), we arrived at the campground.
It was nice to get back to the bush, big skys and serenity amongst the heat and flies.
We used our solar shower, you can just see it hanging off a tree - thanks Nat and Derek!
The next day we walked Dales Gorge and had swims at Fortescue Falls and Circular Pool.
We could not walk the million other Gorges in the NP as Mandy injured her knee. The NP had a great education project for kids. After completing a detailed booklet, the Parks Volunteer tested Jack and made him swear an oath to protect the environment. Only then did he get is badge- he is now a very proud Karijini NP Ranger.
Joel put his body on the line, having to fight the bees to fill up the water tank. It was so hot, even the bees were dying for a drink. It obviously put some tourists off as many water containers had been left in hast as they fled. Only a big Aussie bloke could meet the challenge.
Best to come in July/August, just too hot in October. Heading for the cool west coast.
In Broome for three nights as our fridge needed fixing as it was draining our camper battery. We made the most of being stuck- didn't really feel the love- a bit touristy for us. Could not make it to Barn Hill station as we had to stay close to the fridge fixer ironically called KISS refrigeration.
Gantheaume Point- where features an unattractive lighthouse
Roebuck Hotel- a film location in 'Bran Nue Day'
Willie Creek Pearl Farm- tours too expensive for us.
Pearl Diving on land. Pearl Luggers Museum
Fell in love with Yane Sotiroski's photographs
The iconic Cable Beach- we gave the camel rides a miss.
We drove probably the toughest dirt road yet- the Broome-Cape Leveque Rd to the top of the Dampier Peninsula into Aboriginal owned country.
It was an experience driving on a 30 degree slope to avoid the corrugations. Being over and under taken by 4WDs that fang it, riding over the top of bumps. Driving an AWD we adopted the tortoise strategy. I thought we may be in trouble but after a saw a 1990 Corolla Seca being gunned along the road, with the driver whipping it like a racer horse, we felt better.
Gumbanan Bush Camp is a beautiful, remote, quiet and special place.
Squeaky Beach, swimming and fishing, no crocs
Sunrise
This area of the Dampier Peninsula is home of the Bardi Jawi Peoples. They are saltwater peoples made up of six coastal clan groups based in three communities Djarundin, Lombardina and One Arm Point (Ardyaloon) which is five minutes from Gumbanan camp. Bardi is the language of the peoples on the mainland and Jawi is the language from Sunday Island (Iwany).
We had an extraordinary yarnin session with the traditional owners Frank and Maureen Davey. They were joined by their cousin John, his wife Janine and grandson Jared, who had come up for the weekend to enjoy fishing and the AFL grand final. Frank told us the story of how he worked on the native title claim which took 15 years, bringing the High Court to Gumbanan to prove his families ties since white settlement. The claim was finally granted in 2005 and covers 1037sqm of the land and sea.
That morning the family had caught clam and invited us to join them in a cook up. John cooked clam with ginger and shallots and chilli jam- it was beautiful. We also tried sea grapes- very salty. Maureen showed us the Bower bird nest, how she cooks damper in a quartz sandpit and talked about training up her grand kids to take over the tours they do. We talked about John's work with the Telethon Kids Institute established by Prof. Fiona Stanley which is researching chronic disease in Aboriginal and non-Aboriginal communities in WA. It was a lovely time, they made us feel very welcome.
Maureen and Frank Davey and Yarnin at camp
John preparing and cooking clam
Clam and sea grapes
Maureen shows us the Bower bird nest and quartz sandpit for cooking damper
Maureen showed us the fancy onsite glamping- inside features sofas, a wooden double bed, solar power and a great view ($140 p/n). The camp site does have running water, flushing toilets and showers.
We will definitely come back- maybe when we retire and next time with a 4WD or a higher clearance car.
There was hesitation on the drive back when it started to rain however we only passed through a few muddy puddles. We made it back just in time for the NRL Grand Final before Crab Races took over at the Divers Tavern, Broome.
Yes that is a Crab Hat the race caller is wearing. We are a weird mob.
